Japan: Daitokuji

Though it has some monumental elements, Daitokuji is the most understated of the Kyoto temples shown here.  That's because its monumental elements are surrounded by a cluster of exceedingly simple and self-effacing sub-temples, hardly larger than a suburban home on a suburban lot. Humble as they may be, these sub-temples are exceedingly elegant--even inspirational.

Daikokuji is a center for the Rinzai Zen sect, which began to flourish with the rise to power of the samurai, in the 12th century. The main temple was established by the priest Shuho Myocho, who is said to have lived with Kyoto beggars for 20 years. It was completely destroyed in 1468, then rebuilt. The sub-temples were established during the following century; they flourished during the Tokugawa Shogunate but suffered after the Meiji Restoration, with its support for Shinto. Now, with each open sub-temple charging an entrance fee of four or five dollars, Daitokuji is doing very well, thank you.