Travel to Northern India: Bundelkhand

The ancient block of peninsular India rises in a series of steps from the Ganges lowlands up to the Deccan Plateau. South of Kanpur, the first major rise--very gentle-- is to the Bundelkhand Uplands, which extend south to the Vindya scarp and the next step up. Khajuraho is located near the southeast edge of the Bundelkhand Uplands.

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The uplands are remarkably flat over large areas.  The bedrock is mostly granitic and is neither especially fertile or densely populated.  Where uncultivated, it is heavily grazed.

Most of the grazing is by unfenced cattle.

Fields are mostly unirrigated; gram is especially important.

Cultivation methods are simple.

Housing is typically of of mud or brick, with tile roofs.

Compound farmsteads are commonplace.

Fields are generally unfenced, although the bedrock provides fencing material. (The background temple is Duladeo, a late Khajuraho temple.)

Although this is a poor part of India, it now has cell phones and, obviously, satellite TV.

Roads remain simple.

On one of them, west of Panna, there is a well-known dhaba, or truckstop.  The food's good:  specialties are roti for two cents and dal for 20.