Travel to Japan: Daitokuji

Though it has some monumental elements, Daitokuji is the most understated of the Kyoto temples shown here.  That's because its monumental elements are surrounded by a cluster of exceedingly simple and self-effacing sub-temples, hardly larger than a suburban home on a suburban lot. Humble as they may be, these sub-temples are exceedingly elegant--even inspirational.

Daikokuji is a center for the Rinzai Zen sect, which began to flourish with the rise to power of the samurai, in the 12th century. The main temple was established by the priest Shuho Myocho, who is said to have lived with Kyoto beggars for 20 years. It was completely destroyed in 1468, then rebuilt. The sub-temples were established during the following century; they flourished during the Tokugawa Shogunate but suffered after the Meiji Restoration, with its support for Shinto. Now, with each open sub-temple charging an entrance fee of four or five dollars, Daitokuji is doing very well, thank you.

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Path to Ryogen-in sub-temple.

Inside a dry garden (karesansui, literally "lacking mountain or water"), with artfully chosen stones, meticulously raked gravel, and bordering or included moss.

Totekiko: supposedly the smallest rock garden of all.

The figure here is called "a-un," or "inhale- exhale." It's emblematic of lots of other polarities, too, not least yin and yang.

Isshidan, with gravel representing the sea and stones and moss garden representing Crane and Tortoise islands--and, through them, positive and negative.

The garden at Daisen-in ("Great Hermit") sub-temple shows a ship at sea, with the water flowing from the left (stern) to the right.

To the left: a tempestuous cluster of islands and torrents stands at the edge of the sea.

A bit slower.

A single stone, still in Daisen-in.

The sub-temple buildings are all modest wooden structures that seem as much outdoors as in.

How's this garden (it's Zuihoin) for drama? It's enough to make you look around for a lifeboat.

Calm down. Amazing, what a couple of sticks can do.