Travel to Uzbekistan: Khiva: Tash Hauli

The Tash Hauli, or Stone Palace, was built between 1830 and 1848 and replaced the Ark as the emir's residence.  It is reputed to have 163 rooms, but it's dominated by three courtyards: one for celebrations (the Ishrat Hauli), one for business (the Arz Hauli), and a third for the emir's personal use (the harem).

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Locked gate on the back side.

Detail of door.

On the other side, an open door, leading--can you believe it?--straight to the harem.

Before we go in, a glimpse of the tiled crenulations.

Through the door, we step into a courtyard.

It's dominated by a set of iwans.

This is the first one, nearest the entrance.

The detailing was by a famous craftsman, Abdalla Djinn--Abdulla the magician, so-called from his artistry.

Column base.

Painted tiles.

Another example.

Column.

Carving detail.

Most of the rooms off the courtyard are closed, but this one is open and used as a gallery.

Windows are deeply recessed and perforated to reduce the blindingly bright summer light.

Another open door leads into a room decorated wherever possible.

To get to the other sections of the Tash Hauli, we have to leave the harem and come around to the other entrances.

The Arz Hauli, sometimes called the Law Court.

Panning to the right.

Every side is tiled. 

 Behind us?

An iwan, of course.

Its column base.

The column.

Wall tiling.

Opposing wall.

This is the Ishrat Hauli, most easily distinguished by the celebratory yurt.  The tiles are in comparatively poor condition.

The iwan is intact.

Closer.

Ceiling detail.

Wall panel.