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Notes on the Geography of Spain: Toledo: Photo 42

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Ford saw it in ruins in the 1830s and wrote: "the French never forgave his [Cardinal Lorenzana's] assistance to their priests...[and] burnt [the fortress] as a last legacy by Soult's troops when evacuating the half ruined city. The crumbling walls of the quarters in which the soldiers lodged were, when we were last there, still defiled with the most obscene writings and drawings." Still, ruins can be more evocative than intact buildings. Here, an entrance carries the motto imposed during the Civil War: "Everything for the fatherland."

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